What Camera Should I Buy?
If you love taking photos but you’re craving more creative control than your smartphone or point-and-shoot can offer you, it might be time to amp up your creative potential and invest in a DSLR! “What Camera Should I Buy?” is the #1 FAQ I get asked. This is a pretty heavy question that I usually try to duck for several reasons. But ya’ll have finally beat me down. I’ve put together the comprehensive guide to help you navigate your options (and a comprehensive Camera Model Comparison Chart), so buckle up.
Do You Actually Need a New Camera? First of all, let’s make sure that buying a new camera is going to make a dent in getting you closer to your goals. Imagine going to your favorite restaurant, enjoying a delicious meal, asking the waitress what brand oven and cookware they use in the kitchen, and then replacing all your pots and pans at home with the equipment they use. Do you think your food will start tasting any better? You laugh, but I see this thought process play out when it comes to photography time and time again.
In most cases, the issue is not between the lens and your face, it’s between your left and right ear.
Spending money on equipment feels like a shortcut to taking better photos, but the more important investment is in LEARNING how to use your equipment, regardless of what it can do. Gaining an understanding of lighting, composition, lens choice, exposure control, and mastering control over the DSLR you already have will improve your photos far more than a more expensive camera body (despite what intimidating gear-heads might make it seem like in online forums). There are actually few places I despise more than photography forums. In my experience they are filled with snobby trolls lurking in the shadows of the internet just waiting to tell you you’re not using the right lens, or you don’t have the most up to date image processing chip, or that “serious photographers only use film”. None of this really matters.
Phew, it got dark in there. Ok…. if you’re saying “Natalie, that’s great and all but I’m still going to buy a new camera…” read on.
DSLR vs. Mirrorless DSLR stands for Digital Single Lens Reflex, which in English means that inside of your camera there is a mirror that reflects the image from whatever you’re pointing your camera at up into an optical viewfinder. The optical viewfinder is the little eyepiece that you can look through to see what your image looks like before you take a picture. This eyepiece is historically the core difference between DSLR and Mirrorless cameras. Most mirrorless cameras do not have a viewfinder, so when you’re taking a photo on a mirrorless camera you’re going to be looking at that LCD screen on the back. One drawback to mirrorless is they tend to have a poorer battery life because the camera has to constantly power the LCD screen. For every rule there’s an exception, and I just discovered that Canon produces a mirrorless camera that does give you the option of an electronic viewfinder! One significant advantage is that they are often lighter and less bulky because they do not contain the mirror components. Mirrorless cameras have tended to have fewer accessories because they are newer, but they have gained increasing popularity over the last several years so I expect that will continue to change.
What’s a “kit”? A kit will include a camera body and a lens (and some include other accessories, such as a memory card, cable release, bag, etc.). A kit is the most economical way to get you off the ground and taking pictures quickly. However, be aware that your lenses are where you most noticeably see impact from your investment (more on this later), so it might not be too long before you find yourself wanting to upgrade from that kit lens. The most popular lens in these kits is a 18-55mm lens, and the lowest aperture it allows for is usually around f/4. (See this post here to read more about aperture if blurry backgrounds is a priority to you). The alternative to buying a “kit” camera, is to buy “Body Only” which means you are purchasing the camera without a lens. This is only advisable if you a) are separately purchasing a lens or b) already own a lens. A camera body without a lens makes for a very expensive paper weight.
How Many Megapixels Do I Need? When you buy a camera body, the resolution (i.e. how much information the camera can capture) is a spec you will always see listed, usually first. However, unless you plan on printing your images on a billboard, the digital cameras that are being produced today are all of high enough quality for MOST people’s purposes (i.e. making prints up to 11x14 and/or digital use), so this number doesn’t matter nearly as much as it used to. So if that’s true…
Where Should I Spend My Money? The quality of your images actually lies in the quality of your lens (I mean really it’s in your brain, but if we’re talking about equipment, it’s your lens). If you’re putting a cheap plastic lens in front of your camera, it won’t matter how many megapixels your camera totes. Imagine you are watching the Simpsons, and you want it to look as good as possible, so you watch it on a really high definition TV. It’s still a cartoon. There’s just not that much information there, so the fancy screen doesn’t make a difference. So remember, Lenses are Forever (or at least for like 10-20 years). Camera body models come and go, but I am still using lenses that I bought ten years ago for my professional business where I use and abuse them daily.
What Do I Need for Shooting Fast-Moving Subjects? If you expect to shoot a lot of quick moving targets, then two features might matter to you: 1) The most useful feature you can gain is more auto-focus points (AF) - it will help your camera focus faster and more accurately, and 2) The second is the ability to shoot more frames (fancy lingo for pictures) per second, particularly in a “burst” mode. That will allow you to take several images in very fast succession.
Does (Sensor) Size Matter? (aka “Camera Format”) Most introductory digital cameras will list their camera format as APS-C which is a cropped sensor, and as you move up the ranks toward pro-level cameras you’ll see Full-Frame sensors. Your camera sensor is what records the light that enters your camera and turns it into information (it is the part that replaced the film). A cropped sensor is smaller than a full-frame sensor. For the majority of folks, a cropped sensor is 100% fine with a few exceptions:
1) You need to be able to take reeeally wide wide shots. Cropped sensors have a “zooming in” affect compared to full-frame sensors, which can be a nice thing if you’re trying to photograph something father away.
2) You expect to shoot in a cave where you’ll need to use a really high ISO (caves include: churches, theaters, many evening event venues, and inside a house with few windows). Noise is less of an issue with a full-frame sensor.
Bottom line - Probably not. Unless you’re shooting in those particular circumstances, don’t stress about it.
Prioritizing the Processor? Just like when you see an iSomething chip listed as a spec for say your computer or phone, the processor is the little brain inside your camera. It will affect the speed at which your camera records data in continuous shooting, auto-focuses, and in some cases it helps reduce noise at high ISOs (again, if you plan on shooting in a cave with low light conditions) If you’re looking to use your camera to also shoot video, this will affect how high of a resolution you are able to record video at. You’ll notice though that the pro level cameras trade off processing power in favor of a full-frame sensor. For perspective, the cameras I’ve shot hundreds of weddings with have a DIGIC 6+ processor at the fastest. Occasionally I go HAM shooting in super quick succession and need to let my camera buffer breathe for half a second. If you guys are shooting that spastically, maybe switch to decaf and in the meantime don’t worry too much about this spec either unless you’re serious into sports photography or something of the like.
WiFi? Built-in WiFi allows you to transfer your photos straight to your smartphone or computer. A feature that is slick for social media sharing and streamlined transfer to your computer. The downside is this feature is a battery suck, so if you might only want to enable it when you’re actively using it.
Flippable LCD screens? They aren’t a feature I would expect you to need unless you’re shooting videos of yourself - in which case it’s super useful. Besides which, using your LCD screen as your viewfinder is going to drain your battery rapidly.
Should I Consider for Buying Used / Refurbished? Canon and Nikon both offer products for purchase that are refurbished by the manufacturer. I love this program because Canon still guarantees the product for a certain period of time. It’s like Apple’s system of refurbished products; you can trust that they have been rigorously tested before going (back) to market. The other spec to look for is shutter count - the higher the shutter count, the more the camera has been used. It’s like looking for mileage on a used car. The shutter mechanism usually has to be replaced around 100,000 clicks for the save models and 150k for the pro models, so if it’s approaching that mile mark, be aware you might be spending $250-400 to have that swapped out soon.
Canon vs. Nikon vs. Sony (vs. Kodak vs. etc.) While I personally shoot Canon, it doesn’t matter which brand you choose. Any company with a name you recognize likely has a long-standing reputation and creates quality products. The key is to pick one brand and stick with it. Lenses are not compatible between brands, so if you invest in different lenses over time you want one consistent system. In the interest of this post not being obscenely long, I will discuss only the most popular brands / models. I’ve sectioned them out into three price ranges: “Save” “Splurge” and “Pro-Level” depending on your goals and budget. If you already know what house you’ve been sorted into, just skip to that section!
C A N O N
- Save -
DSLR- If you’re looking to keep your spend around the $500 mark, I would personally pick the Rebel T6i (~$549) from Canon’s popular introductory DSLR is the Rebel line. While the Rebel T6 and T7 come in under $500, the way Canon releases the TNumber(i) FIRST, and then a year later release TNumber which at a lower price point but at the expense of more outdated tech (go figure). In this case, it’s potentially worth the extra $100 to have a faster processor, and increased autofocus points - but definitely a place to save money if you’d like.
Mirrorless- The M50 (~$479) is Canon’s robust introductory mirrorless camera, which boasts the fastest Canon processor and oodles of autofocus points. This camera has a built in viewfinder. For fast and accurate focusing, this model sports the “dual pixel” feature which in Canon’s DSLR line is reserved for their pro-level cameras. Relative to the Splurge that we’re gonna talk about in a second, this camera has very similar fundamental features but is a little svelter for your shoulder to carry.
- Splurge -
DSLR - The middle of the Rebel line, the Rebel T7i (~$699) is the two-years younger cousin to the Rebel T6i, so in many ways it’s the same camera. However, if shooting moving action is important to you this camera is a better buy; it has twice the autofocus points and one more frame-per-second, both of which will help you nail “the shot.” Other perks include a longer battery life, lighter weight, and Bluetooth capability.
Mirrorless - For an (upper) mid-range, I like the look of the M6 Mk II (~$799). While there are several models between this and the M50, there isn’t a significant change in features until this model. Like the DSLR splurge, this model is better for people looking to reduce blurry photos of moving subjects with increased autofocus points as well as increased the frame-per-second capability to 14 frames-per-second (compared to M50’s 10 fps). Vloggers or folks who value video will love that this model bumps the frames per second. Two downsides to note: this model is a little heavier than the M50, and if you like having a viewfinder be aware that you will need to purchase it as a separate accessory. One fun perk is that the battery for this camera can be charged via USB, so you’re not tethered to a regular outlet (most cars include USB charging ports these days so you can charge anywhere the road takes you).
- Pro Level -
DSLR - If you’re making a jump up to a pro-level camera, you’re likely looking to bump up from a cropped sensor to a full-frame camera (along with even more autofocus points). The camera body I currently love to shoot with is the 5D Mk IV (~$2,499), but again please do NOT think that jumping to the most expensive option is the best way to “get better photos.” One perk to mention is that this body is weather-sealed, so it’ll stand up to getting tossed around a lot better and you don’t have to worry as much if you’re out shooting with some rain showers (but no submersion plz).
Mirrorless - I didn’t used to think of mirrorless cameras as a viable pro-level option (because they weren’t), but now that they’ve made one that has an optical viewfinder, I’ve got my eye to try out Canon R (~$1,799).
If you’re like me and you want to see allll the options on the market, I would love to save you the time and alcohol I spent trolling and scrolling the internet. I made a PDF with each Canon AND Nikon AND Sony’s DSLR and Mirrorless models that are currently available, their price and the specs we’ve talked about today! Click below to send it straight to your inbox!
N I K O N
- Save -
DSLR - Nikon’s D5600 (~$596) is a really solid introductory camera. While the D3500 is technically intro (~$396 w/ 18-55mm kit), if budget allows I think the D5600 is the better investment. One of the top ways people want to improve their photography is to to successfully shoot moving subjects. Your camera’s autofocus system is one the keys to nailing those shots, and the D5600 more than triples the af points of the D5300. This camera’s LCD screen can be front-facing which is great for vloggers or selfie-enthusiasts. It also has a touch screen, keeping with the trend that this camera is designed to feel intuitive and easy to approach.
Mirrorless - You’re not going to find a mirrorless camera around the $500 goal, read on to splurge.
- Splurge -
DSLR - Moving up, the D7500 (~$896)- not to be confused with the D750 which we’ll cover in a sec - this model adds features that especially valuable for people want to shoot quickly. In addition to more focus points, this model also sports a faster processor,and more frames per second. If you’re looking to shoot video, this camera might be appealing because it has 4K capability, and can shoot both .mov or MP4 file types. This model also has a longer battery life, and it is weather sealed for splashes/dust which is a perk you usually only find on pro-level models.
Mirrorless - Z50 (~$856) Nikon’s entry-level mirrorless camera packs a punch with the fastest processor available, mega autofocus points, and an electronic viewfinder. For fast shooting this camera has an impressive increase in frames per second. For video folks, this camera is 4K capable and the screen can flip 180 degrees to be front-facing for vloggers (or for fabulous selfies.)
- Super Splurge / Intro Pro -
DSLR - The D750 (~$1496) is a great option on the upper range of a splurge - some pros even love to use this camera! Like we talked about for pros above, this camera has a full-frame sensor, adds a few more autofocus points, and has a longer battery life (1230 shots vs. D5600’s 970). This camera also has a weather sealed body for added durability. One downside to these added features is an additional .65 pounds to carry around.
- Pro Level -
DSLR - Last but not least, the D780 (~$2,296) has all the pro features as the D750 (full-frame, weather sealed body) but where the D750 has a slightly older processor than the D7500, the D780 bumps up to the fastest processor available. A lot of people find that the D750 is the better bang for your buck, unless video is a top priority for you, in which case this model might be worth the additional investment since it bumps up to 4K capacity.
Mirrorless - As with DSLR models, the Z6 (~$1,796) steps up to a pro level with a full frame sensor, and the electronic viewfinder also has a higher resolution. Compared to the Z50, this model is a little heftier (which could be something you like if you’re background is a DSLR camera), and has a few more autofocus points. One thing to keep in mind is that this model, since it is geared toward pros, does not include a built-in flash.
If you’re like me and you want to see allll the options on the market, I would love to save you the time and alcohol I spent trolling and scrolling the internet. I made a PDF with each Canon AND Nikon AND Sony’s DSLR and Mirrorless models that are currently available, their price and the specs we’ve talked about today! Click below to send it straight to your inbox!
S O N Y
- Save -
DSLR - a68 (~$598) Then this little guy offers an intruiging combination of DSLR and mirrorless cameras. One of the advantages of mirrorless cameras is they use a special kind of autofocus detection called phase detection. The heady optics magic that entails is above my paygrade to try to explain today, but basically remember that mirrorless = more fancy af points. However, Sony’s intro DSLR has a proprietary transluscent mirror, which means that it’s still a DSLR but it also gives you those fancy af points.
Mirrorless - a6100 (~$598) Sony’s introductory mirrorless camera packs in a lot of great features. It has bountiful autofocus points, a front-facing screen perfect for selfies or vloggers. Compared to the splurge model we’ll talk about next, this save model actually gives you a longer battery life and a faster shutter speed too!
- Splurge -
DSLR - Kicking it up a notch (Lagasse throwback, anyone?), the a77 II (~$1,198) is the same in size and resolution as the a68, but it does offer several upgrades. In this model you now have Wifi connection, an additional 4 frames per (good for shooting moving targets), a more flexible LCD screen, AND feature normally reserved for pro-level cameras, weather sealing for splash and dust protection. It also has a higher shutter speed, so if you expect to want to shoot in open apertures (to achieve a blurry background) in full-sun you may like this feature (although if I can convince you to NOT shoot in full-sun I will in another blog post ;) ). By adding these features, you do have a little bit more weight to carry but the size of the camera body is exactly the same as the a68.
Mirrorless - a7 II (~$898) Similar to the DSLR splurge, this model also gives you weather sealing for added durability. What sets this model apart from the a6100 is that it has a full-frame sensor which is more of a pro level feature (important for large scale printing and dark shooting conditions). The trade-off for the full-frame is that this model is significantly heavier, so unless the full-frame is important to you I would probably recommend taking a second look at the 6100.
- Pro Level -
DSLR - a99 II (~$3,198) Moving up to a pro level camera might be worth the (significant) extra investment if you’re passionate about one of a few niche areas. The core upgrade is that this camera has a full-frame sensor, which is important for large scale printing, shooting in dark conditions, or getting the widest shot of your scenery as possible. This model also adds Bluetooth, and for video enthusiasts it can shoot 4K. One drawback to keep in mind is that because this camera is geared toward pros it does not have a built-in flash (though if you use a lot of flash it’s a good move to get a better flash anyways).
Last but not least is Sony’s a7 III (~$1,198) While the earlier model, the a7 II also has a full-frame, Sony has thrown in a suped up sensor that helps it perform even better in low-light conditions. One of the major upgrades is a significant increase in autofocus points! For video folks, this camera also has 4k capability. For pros, you want to be able to shoot to two cards at once, and this model does include this feature. It also has a longer battery life, and a touch-screen.
If you’re like me and you want to see allll the options on the market, I would love to save you the time and alcohol I spent trolling and scrolling the internet. I made a PDF with each Canon AND Nikon AND Sony’s DSLR and Mirrorless models that are currently available, their price and the specs we’ve talked about today! Click below to send it straight to your inbox!
Now What?? Once you’ve picked out your new baby, or if you’ve decided to stick with your tried and true camera for a while longer, I’d love to help you level up your photo game with whatever tool you’re using! Head over to NSP Photo Academy to sign up for our newsletter and receive exclusive resources like 6 Ways to Start Taking Better Photos TODAY!!! There you will also find an on-demand course to teach you everything you need to know about your camera and the fundamentals of photography, Camera Bootcamp: From AUTO to WOW! I’d love to see you over on social media - tag your latest capture with #NSPphotoacademy and say hello! :)